Monday, June 14, 2010

Treking Days 1 & 2

Our trek turned out to be pretty different than I was expecting, but amazing all the same. Mainly there were more miles and more rain than I was expecting. Despite these downers we saw a ton of stunning scenery and met a lot of wonderful people along the way. While it is currently 'winter' in Peru, it is also their dry season. This means that while it is chillier than the rest of the year, it’s actually the best time to be there because it's dry. Supposedly.





The trek is called the Salkantay Trek and is known as the 'back door' to Machu Picchu. Most people who hike to Machu Picchu do it via the Inca Trail. This is supposed to beautiful, however it can only be done with a certified tour guide, and costs a pretty penny. It’s also rather overrun with hordes of tourists. I mentioned this in my last post but I'll say it again: we try to avoid those! Salkantay is supposed to have better scenery anyway: much more varied than the Inca Trail, and also goes over a 15,500ft pass. Despite being the 'back door' it is still done almost entirely by guided tour groups, just much fewer of them. We made the decision to do it by ourselves. The biggest part of this decision is that the guided groups have mules that carry their gear so you only have a very small day pack. We were all hauling between 35-60lbs and were at pretty high elevation, so it was hard work.





We started out from the town of Mollepata and spent the first day hiking to a ‘town’ called Soray.


The flat green spot at the base of the mountain really far in the distance, thats Soray. I took this picture at 4pm. hahah


We had a book that described the trail, but quickly discovered that having a three year old book meant that some things had, well, changed. We were greatly helped by a number of very kind locals who pointed out short cuts to us and yelled at us to turn around when they saw us going the wrong way. Despite all this we got completely, totally, lost day one. The problem is that the locals also use these trails to get around and as a result they branch off to houses, fields, communities, etc. We spent 3 hours wandering around until we came upon a tour group and begged them to point us in the right direction. After a quick tip (the trail simply disappeared for 100 yards and then picked right up again) we were on our way and it was smooth sailing to Soray from there. Unfortunately, being so close to the equator you have only 12 hours of daylight. Its pitch dark at 6pm so we spent the last hour with our head lamps.









 

Day two dawned to me waking up in our tent and saying to Matt 'honey, I had this dream. I woke up and it was pouring down rain. We laid here waiting for it to stop, but it never did and we laid here all day long.' Unfortunately, this was both reality, and a premonition. It had rained hard in the middle of the night, which was probably the cause of said dream. As soon as I stepped out of the tent, it began again. We cooked our oatmeal and Via in a light drizzle and headed out. Day two we crossed over a 15,500ft pass. At the time this was the highest any of us had ever been by about 1,000ft and we were all glad to have it over without anyone getting sick.




If you haven't seen our Ireland pictures, it looks exactly like this. Ireland in Peru. Weird.


Despite a day of steady drizzle it quit soon after we headed down from the pass so we decided to call it an early day and made camp at four. We warmed ourselves with the two bottles of wine we had brought in a Playtypus. Delightful. Then we made Mountain House brownies. This was a good night in camp. The clouds cleared as the moon came out and we discovered we were sitting the shadow of some gigantic snowy mountains.







**Not alot of picutres from day 2. It was raining. My camera was in my pack staying dry. Ashley has a few from the pass but... I don't have them yet!

Saturday, June 12, 2010

Cusco & the Sacred Valley


After a uneventful, though sleepless day and night in the air we arrived in Cusco, Peru to some wonderful views of the mountains we would be hiking through in just a few days.



Cusco itself is a very different city from most of the ones I have seen in Latin America. It is known as the "Navel of the World", having something to do with the fact that it was the Inca capital and center of culture at the time. For the most part it is a very beautiful city, much cleaner and prettier than most. Unfortunately this has a lot to do with its touristyness. Instead of hearing 'sombrillas, paraguas, sombrillas' (umbrellas, umbrellas) on every corner like in Costa Rica, you hear 'pretty lady, you want a massage? massage, manicure, pedicure, waxing??' NO. No Thank you.


View of the city from hostel roof


Hostel





We spent day one wandering the city, picking up some groceries, fuel for our trek, bus tickets for after the trek, etc. We had cocktail hour on the rooftop patio of our hostel in the sunshine and Matt & I got the pleasure of introducing Ashley & Steven to Pisco/Piscola. Our readers from the fall may remember Pisco as the particularly nasty South American hard alcohol of choice. When mixed with Coca-Cola and some ice it is...tolarable. And a good cultural experience right?

Our plan for the next day was to visit the 'Sacred Valley of the Incas'. Its an area surrounding Cusco that is a) beautiful and b) has lots of ruins. Most people visit it as part of a day long tour on a large bus with a guide and lots of fellow gringos. We try to avoid such experiences at all costs, so when we got a nice taxi driver taking us accross town in Cusco day 1 I asked him how much it would be to get a taxi for the day. After explaining what it was we wanted to do Beliasario offered himself for $60! Hired! He drove us around for about 8 hours, stopping whenever we wanted to take pictures, explaining to us what we were seeing, and answering my wierd questions. No regrets about not being on that tour bus!












Wednesday, June 9, 2010

A Preview




I'm receiving a lot of loving harassment to get my pictures and stories up here. I'm having a hard enough time digging through the mounds of laundry in my living room at the moment, much less digging through all the pictures. I also have, well, a job that I had to go back to on Monday. So to hopefully satiate your desires while I get my life back together, here are a few pics to get you started.


Machu Picchu, what else


Woman & child on Uros floating Islands, Lake Titicaca


Sunrise from the sumit of Huayna Potosi 19,975ft


Some much needed fun in the sun


Road of Death mountain biking


Sunset on Isla del Sol, Bolivia


Inca gate at Ollantytambo, Sacred Valley


Somewhere between Salkantay Pass & La Playa, trek day 3




Saturday, June 5, 2010

Success!

We all made it to the top of Huayna Potosi! It was hard. Beautiful. We are tired now and going to sleep. Got up at 1am this morning to summit. This will probably be the last 'in country' post since we leave tomorrow so stay tuned for some more detailed posts with  pictures once we get home. Thanks for following our crazy adventures.

Friday, June 4, 2010

We Survived

For our very worrisome followers, the parents out there, you probably know from our itenerary that yesterday was the Road of Death bike ride, and hopefully took my quick post last night about Ben to mean that we were alive. We did indeed survive the Road of Death. Since the last post we had a wonderfully relaxing two days on the Isla del Sol which is a pretty remote island on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca. We arrived in La Paz two nights ago and yesterday mountain biked down about 3500 meters. Steven, Ashley and Matt had a great time. I discovered I find mountain biking very scary. It was beautiful scenery the entire time though and a great experience. Today we leave for Huayna Potosi. Wish us luck at 20,000ft!

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Baby Ben

Matt and I are so excited to announce that we are Uncle and Aunt!

Matts brother Andy and his wife Jen welcomed their first child Benjamin Cole Sullivan into the world on May 27th. We are disappointed that we missed the event but very excited for the little family! They sent us pictures and he is adorable. Really. Really really adorable. We are so excited to meet him!

Congratulations Jen and Andy!

Monday, May 31, 2010

Great so far

We have been having a great time!

The trek went really well. We had a bit of rain  and put in a few more hours of huking that we expected but saw a ton of really amazing, stunning scenery and really enjoyed ourselves. Made it over the 15,000ft pass. Macchu Picchu was amazing. So cool. No words, you will just need to wait for pictures. :)

We have been on the move a lot the past couple days so haven´t had a chance to make it to the computer. After our trek and Machu Picchu we went back to Cusco to pick up our bags and catch just a couple of hours of shut eye before spending the day on the bus yesterday getting to Lake Titicaca. We got to make some stops at interesting places along then way and then spent all day out on the lake today. We got to visit some floating islands made of reeds that people live on, and also another island on the lake. It is gorgeous here. Tomorrow we leave for Bolivia!!

Ciao!